Thursday, April 03, 2008

What City? I Thought This Was A Mall.

Hong Kong, erroneously referred to as a city, is in fact the world’s biggest mall.

Hong Kong was a trip. It is huge on a scale that is almost beyond comprehension. I have been to New York and New York seems small in comparison. This perception has more to due with Hong Kong’s extraordinary density, the Kwun Tong District has 51,100 people per square km, than the city’s actual physical size. (New York’s densest district has a mere 42,300 people per square km.)

And the mall per capita ratio is pretty impressive.

I decided to go to Victoria Peak, the highest point of Hong Kong with a nice view of the city. I stepped off the ship directly into a mall, literally. To get anywhere from the ship you first had to travel through at least a quarter mile of mall (where I bought shoes). Then to get to the ferry you passed by a bunch more shops which was kind of like a mall (bought shoes there too). I took the ferry to the central district. I got turned around in the other ferry terminal and wound up in… a mall. (I did not buy shoes in this mall though I was tempted.) I took the bus to the tram and then the tram up to Victoria Peak, the highest point of the city, which of course, had a mall. (Luckily, no shoe shops.)

View from the peak, unfortunately it was a gray day:


But you are probably more interested in the flavor of Hong Kong. Hong Kong is a major city with ridiculously high high-rises on most of the land. The English colonialism seeps through and is obvious everywhere. Most signs are in English and Chinese, and a lot of places have very English names, like Victoria Peak, named for the Queen. Many people speak English and seem glad for the opportunity to practice.

In a lot of ways it is a city like any other, with Starbuck’s and 7-11s on every corner. (This sentence is evidence of a well weathered traveler, which is rather unfortunate. It is too bad I see Hong Kong and one of the thoughts in my mind is, “just another city.”)

There are very uniquely Asia aspects, such as the street solicitors trying actively to get you to come to their massage parlors or have a suit made by their tailor. There are advertisements for Karoke packages all over the place, which is something I would expect more in Japan.

I only had a few hours ashore and most of it was spent in the tourist district, not a true representation of the city. I don’t think there are “Armani Kids” stores in all the malls of Hong Kong. (Armani Kids!) It was certainly the westernized up-scale part of town.

I am disappointed to admit I missed the major markets, which are the Hong Kong version of a bazaar, and a must-see destination. Most people came back to the ship with the usual array of trinkets, like jade elephants, chopsticks, embroidered boxes, etc. I kept looking for something unique that I could not buy at my local Asian market and I never found that something. I am sure I would have found something at the major market places. (Everything we buy in the states seems to be made in China, so why am I surprised when I recognize most of what is being sold in China.)


We sailed out of Hong Kong at 8pm, when the light show is. I would guess at least thirty or so buildings were decorated with choreographed lights in all colors, intensities and patterns.




Hong Kong is definitely a city worth seeing, if only to appreciate its sheer mind-blowing size. It is Chinese enough to really appreciate the culture and English enough to travel easily without speaking Chinese.

And the food was unbelievable.

In the tourist areas, almost everything was also in English. That does not mean the English was perfect. I was on the lookout for “Engrishisms.” My favorite “Engrish” sign was, “Goods that will be damaged, must be compensated.” I have always been a sucker for well compensated goods.

Cool: Hong Kong in general.
Stupid: Armani Kids!