Tuesday, July 02, 2013

Ramblings from Circumvesuviana (The Train Between Sorrento and Napli)




(Forgive this posts obvious dereliction of duty; I failed to whip out a camera at many notable points.)

Sitting on the train, on my way to Napoli for a stupid logistical run to the consulate, I had the time to reminisce on the last few days.

One of the amazing aspects of my life is that my friends sprinkle the globe. A few days ago the ship pulled into Barcelona which was great because it meant I got to see Kathy, a dear friend I met on board in 2005. She is American but lives in Barcelona.  

My closest friends (excluding a few in the US) are regretfully anything but close, residing in Edinburgh, Copenhagen and South Africa.

(My musing interrupted at this point by a kid playing an according for money on the train. Missing photo op one.)

Lunch with Kathy in her home city of Barcelona was a true delight. And as an aside, Barcelona is a city oozing art. Sure, some of it is inappropriate graffiti. But some of the graffiti is art. The city, even the alleyways, is seeping creativity. Unfortunately, too busy yabbering with Kathy, I did not think to take pictures. (Missing photo op two.)

Barcelona was followed next by Monte Carlo, a fabulous mix of stratified sub-cultures. There are the ultra-rich, the wide mix of general tourists, the business people in town for conferences, the upper-end local business people, the young basically minimum wage workers catering to the tourists, the fun-loving transient yacht working deckhands, (I don’t think genuine locals actually exist) all mingling against the backdrop of vertical cityscapes, soft French architecture, ridiculously expensive Ferraris, Rolls, Bentleys, etc. Everyone is clad in flowy light-colored thin cloths in the golden making summer sun.

This is a recylced photo from years ago.
I did not take a picture of the heli-yacht this time.
  Missing photo op three.
Burnt into your mind are the super elite cars as they pass (like the glittery baby-blue Bentley), the ten million plus pristine yachts (every now and then even including a helicopter), the obviously ultra-rich with their bodies by trainer, their skin by spa, their perfectly tailored summer clothes, weighted down by a tasteful selection of jewelry, finished with shoes that cost more than my rent in Newport Beach, California.






Monte Carlo is a charming day, but the subdued elitist competition makes me homesick for my hometown, Santa Barbara which has a few of the equally uber rich, who are out in the local cafes finished with flip flops hardly costing $20.
In the evening, as friends and I sat at a bar, the sky burst into fireworks, for no reason we could determine other than it is summertime in Monte Carlo.

Yesterday, we pulled into Civitavecchia (the port close to Rome). Civitavecchia is where this journey started for me in 2005. I think it was a Tuesday morning, around 7:15am, in May. I answered the phone as I got ready for work. The caller said, “Can you be in Rome in eight days?”

I thought it was some sort of radio contest. There was no preamble, no “Hi. May I speak to…” 

It was just, “Can you be in Rome in eight days?”

I think the next sentence was, “I mean do you have a valid passport?”

The second sentence did not clarify the nature of the call, though it did seem to indicate the person was serious about wanting to know the answer.

The call was a follow up to my application to work on board a cruise ship, as IT staff, submitted nearly eight months earlier. It was a dream I had allowed to fade after four months of diligent pursuit, a few months of waning pursuit, followed by a healthy dose of reality ultimately culminating in taking another position.

I am not sure how I answered the question, “Can you be in Rome in eight days?” Was it an enthusiastic, “Yes!”? (Probably not at 7:15am prior to coffee.) Was it an, “I suppose?” Was it, “I think you have the wrong number.” 

I wish I remembered.

I suppose it is irrelevant now. Whatever the answer was, I was in Rome in eight days.

I remember clearly, the feeling in my stomach, driving from the hotel to the ship for the first time. I called my friend Sean, the only person I knew who would be up at that time, 2am Pacific. I am not sure what I said. But I do know exactly what was going through my mind, “What on earth have I gotten myself into?” Though not as clearly thought, the murky undercurrents of my mind were also churning, “And how do I get myself out of it?”
I am very grateful that Sean answered the phone, and listened to what was probably nervous idle chatter.

And here I am now, eight years later, on a train (now returning from Napoli to Sorrento) running what is effectively an all-day errand to the US Consulate.

I am not the super seasoned traveler some of my friends are. But jumping off the ship, catching a train off to a different Italian city, then a taxi to the consulate, and back again doesn’t really phase me and I honestly don’t plan as much as I probably should. For example, I did not know the train schedule, only that it ran regularly, and I did not know which stop to get off in Napoli. But I knew when the train got to a very urban area, after about an hour, it would be best to get off where the majority of the people on the train got off… because that station would also have the most taxis. (The station I got off at was amazing. There were about 100 people in line for a taxi, and about 30 taxis picking up people at any given time. It was the most amazing taxi operation I have ever seen. Missed photo op four.)

Another recycled picture.
In the distance, there is a bridge.
On foot, figure out how to get to that bridge.
I think this requires being born in Venice or
a really good die roll in Dungeons and Dragons.
I once got hopelessly lost in Venice, Italy, and learned perhaps one of the best traveling tricks. When all else fails, watch the flow of traffic and chose direction accordingly. In Venice, through the maze of narrow alleyways, bridges over canals, past the dead-end paths and dark corridors, there is a constant. The majority of the foot traffic, for most of the day, flows toward St. Mark’s Square. So when lost, follow traffic, under the scaffolding, past the gelato stores, and through the courtyards. Eventually a narrow Venetian archway will yield to St. Mark’s Square. 

This is the same trick I used today to find a taxi in Napoli. 









Secluded Korean Beach.



Earlier this year, I was on a secluded beach beyond a cliff hanging temple in Korea. I called home after sending a picture of the scene. My step-mother was extraordinarily concerned that I was one, alone and two until I rang, no one knew where I was.
(Oh, just looked out the train window. I am at Pompeii.)

I think I laughed when my step-mother was concerned. That beach in Korea, was probably amongst the safer excursions I have taken.









One of my favorite street perspectives in Sorrento.
My Circumvesuviana thoughts were cut short by watching the view. 

When I arrived back 'home' in Sorrento, I popped off the train, walked a few blocks only to be beckoned into a café where friends were enjoying pizza.

It is a charming life.

Cool: Having friends to see around the world.
Stupid: Having friends around the world, too far to grab a coffee with.
Cool: The silly tricks you learn through traveling, like following the traffic to Saint Mark's Square.
Stupid: Spending the day trekking to the consulate instead of hiking the Amalfi Coast as I intended (but at least it gave me time to write).

Monday, June 24, 2013

Getting a Run in at Lunch (Gibraltar)



Cruise life generally means working split shift, meaning several hours working, several hours off, followed by several hours working again, in one day. For me, I generally work around 7am until noon and 4pm until 8pm.

People on land hate the mere idea of this.

When you work on a ship, it is perfect… because lunch is ashore.

Today I spent “lunch” racing up the Rock of Gibraltar, literally. I found some mention of a hiking trail online and off I went.

The cool thing about ship life is that you can just do that, leave the office and do something awesome like hike The Rock of Gibraltar at lunch. The stupid thing is that you absolutely must be back to the ship by sailing or, you are fired. Period.

This perspective does not at all do justice to how amazingly steep this hill is.
I decided to do a loop, meaning I would go to the furthest point one way and back a different way. As I had no idea how long this would take, it was a bit of a risk. If I mis-calculated, I would be jobless. Hence, I raced up The Rock.

Trail along the ridge line.

"Slipping is ill-advised." Queen's English for "Slip and you f^%*ing die." That building at the bottom is six stories high, just to give you an idea how dramatic the incline is.

Any trail where the birds are resting below you is a precarious.

The view which really made it worth it.

 Obligatory Gibraltar monkey shot. There are somewhat domesticated monkeys at the top of Gibraltar.  (They are somewhat domesticated the same way the monkeys in Malaysia are. They are fine, unless they think you have something tasty. Then all bets are off.) To the left of the monkey is my ship in the background.


And finally, the monkey showing us the door at the funicular back down to the town. (Sane people take the funicular up instead of running up the south side of the ridge. )


Wednesday, June 19, 2013

What Time(zone) Is It?

Through my years working on cruise ships, I have acquired obscure adept ability to tell you what time it is in other time zones. This comes with years of practice, changing time zones, one hour at a time.

When you live on a cruise ship, you very rarely spend a week in one time zone. You often travel east to west or west to east switching time zones. To people not accustomed to this practice, you might wonder, how do you coordinate over 1000 people changing their watches. For the crew, we get these silly, but very effective, little reminders on our doors the day before a time change.

The reason why this guy is dancing and on a green card is because tonight is an hour back. An hour back means an hour more to sleep in, and everyone likes that. (Though to be honest, it tends to mean a great night out at the bar so you stay up two hours later, negating all benefits. But let’s just pretend you actually get an hour more of sleep.)

Today, I am in Spain. I was asked what time it is in LA. I look at my watch, see it is 3pm locally, and can tell you in an instant it is 6am in LA. I do this calculation at least once a day, in whatever time zone I am in.  I also often do the offset between the ship I am on and the other ship. The calculation today is easy as we are GMT +2 and the other ship is GMT +3.

At this point, I have been in every time zone of the world, including the weird 0.5 hour times zones like Newfoundland, Canada, parts of India and parts of Australia. I know ridiculous obscurities like which time zones choose to adjust for daylight savings and that Israel changes does spring forward on Fridays not Sundays. All of this is really more than any one person should know.

And this is just standard for my position and my experience.

Anyway, as I walked through my cabin door, happy to see the happy dancing alarm clock on a green background, it occurred to me how mystifying it would be to most people that a dancing alarm clock on green paper could bring a smile to my face so I thought I would explain.

Happy Hour Back.

Stupid: Hours forward, an hour less of sleep.

Cool: Hours back, also generally an hour less of sleep, but theoretically, an hour more of sleep.